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Barber Terms for Haircuts

Hudson / Hawk
barber tools laid out on table
  • Zero/Skin Fade: This type of fade is the shortest. The hair blends directly into the skin, giving a sharp, clean look. It’s an excellent choice for those who prefer a very close-cropped appearance.
  • Low Fade: The low fade usually starts about one finger’s depth above the ears and then curves around the hairline and extends down to the neckline. This style works well with all hair types, particularly those seeking a more conservative yet stylish look. It’s a perfect cut for those who want a little more coverage on the sides of their head.
  • Mid Fade: Less subtle than a low fade, and less drastic than a high fade, the mid fade offers the best of both worlds. It’s a popular choice because it provides a balanced, modern look without being too bold. It’s also the most versatile of all fades, as it’s neither too high nor too low. The shortest point starts about two fingers above the ear.
  • High Fade: The high fade starts near the top of the head (about three fingers above the ear) and creates a dramatic contrast between the long hair on top and the shaved sides. A high fade is suitable for those who want very little hair on the sides. It’s also a military fave!
  • Layering: This technique involves removing hair in a specific way to reduce heaviness and create the desired shape. Layering adds volume and movement and can help thin out your hair.
  • Thinning: Thinning is used to reduce bulk in thick hair. Special thinning shears remove some of the hair strands, making the hair more manageable without changing the overall length. This technique makes your hair feel lighter and easier to move around. It’s a good option for those with thick hair, but it should be avoided by those with super coarse or wiry hair.
  • Texturizing: Texturizing involves cutting the hair in a way that adds dimension and visual interest. It can make shorter styles look intentionally — and attractively — messy. Your barber can add texture to your hair with scissors or a razor.
  • Blending: Blending is a technique used to ensure a smooth transition between different hair lengths, such as in a fade or taper. It removes any unwanted imperfections, such as lines, dark spots, and uneven lengths, creating a seamless look. Barbers use a variety of tools to blend the hair.
  • Line Up/Shape Up: A line-up or shape-up involves creating sharp lines around the hairline, often at the forehead, temples, and nape. It’s popular in more structured styles and provides a crisp, clean finish.
  • Tapered: A tapered neckline seamlessly blends the haircut to the skin at the nape of the neck only. Your barber may recommend it for a longer-lasting haircut, as it helps the haircut grow out well between appointments.
  • Squared: A squared neckline, or block neckline, cuts straight across.
  • Rounded: A rounded neckline is similar to a squared neckline but with rounded corners to achieve a softer look.

Terms to Describe Your Unique Hair

Your barber will take many factors into consideration when recommending certain cuts and styles to you, including your hair texture, density, and type.

  • Hair Texture: Your hair’s texture is defined by the thickness of individual strands of hair. If you have fine hair, a strand of your hair will have a smaller diameter. If you have coarse hair, a strand will have a wider diameter.
  • Hair Density: Many people confuse the terms used to define texture and density. Hair density refers to the number of hairs per square inch of scalp, and it’s considered thin, thick, or somewhere in between. Sometimes this can be confusing because the terms can seem contradictory. For example, it’s possible to have thinning coarse hair (less hair per square inch but thick strands) or thick fine hair (a lot of hair per square inch but smaller strands).
  • Hair Type: Hair type refers to the natural pattern of your hair. Generally, there are four main categories: straight, wavy, curly, and coily. If you don’t know your hair type, simply ask your barber.
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